“You’re Mexican!” he said a little too enthusiastically, like I was just what he’d been looking for. I worried that he was going to put me in his museum or something.
u
this
kerplunk.
How is anyone from here?
How stupid,
Abuela loved her cats. She made a point to love them loudly and in front of us, like she did with everything that wasn’t her family. She loved the weatherman. She loved the woman who worked at the cafeteria, Abigail. “She’s so pur-ty, mija,” she’d tell my mother, who always rolled her eyes. “Really! Honest. She is.” She loved the high school friends I would bring home. “What’s-his-name,” she’d say, pretending to forget. “Michael? Oh, mijo. Michael is so shar-ming.” Charming. She loved a specific goose she liked to look at when she sat in the park by the pond. “I saw Lady Godiva,” she’d tell us proudly, her name for the goose.
I, uncherished, no Michael, no Lady Godiva, threw Squirrel, who was cherished, right in front of her. I’d never seen her so angry. She flung open the screen door with such force that it bounced back with wiry, clanging thunder. She picked up her long skirt to get to me faster, rabies in her eyes. I screamed and ran away, went around her and made it back into her house, where I booked it to the pink bathroom and locked the door behind me.
But, like so much else in her house, the lock didn’t work. The door opened violently, Abuela standing there, holding a space heater by the cord like a medieval flail. I shrank into a corner of the bathroom and buried my head in my knees while Abuela unleashed a torrent of contempt on me. I waited for the space heater to crash down on my head. But it didn’t.
When I finally dared to look up through my arms, my eyes landed on the gold necklace hanging around Abuela’s neck. It was her favorite necklace, the one she wore every day. It was Mother Cabrini, a missionary from Italy. Mother Cabrini locked her eyes with mine as she jangled about on Abuela’s neck, staring at me with the austere gaze of Catholic saints.
“Mother Cabrini is always watching out for me,” Abuela would often brag, holding her up. She claimed the necklace had been bestowed upon her at the top of a mountain that she had climbed in Mexico. There was a church up there and a woman in a veil had put the necklace in Abuela’s open hand, then closed it for her—or so Abuela had said. Abuela said a lot of things.
I didn’t really believe any of that. But some part of me did believe that Mother Cabrini saved me from a space heater to the head.
“Are you OK in there?” Mom called from outside the bathroom. “I’m sweating my ass off.”
*
Dan and I cut through the tourists as we made our way to the main exhibit, an aura of privilege separating my experience from theirs. These were people who would never see the hallways I had just seen. Dan whisked me past relics, plaques with explanations in different languages. We stopped to admire a wooden figure of a man splintered in half.
“It probably represented an enemy tribe,” Dan explained. “They were ritualistically broken before battle.”
“Like a pep rally,” I said. “Sounds fun.”
Dan showed me smoking pipes, pots sculpted in the likeness of various gods, tools of all kinds. I thought about how these objects once lay around as everyday items in the past. They must have been dull as a coffee maker in a modern kitchen back then.
But here they were, suspended and holy, separated from the world from which they had been plucked by thick panels of glass. They must have known everything researchers like Sue were dying to know. But they didn’t speak. They slept instead, out of contempt for their captors.
“Do you know what ‘Mexico’ means?” Dan asked in front of a ragged rock sculpture of a deity.
“Yes,” I said. “The Mexica were a tribe. They were the Aztecs.”
He grinned that knowing grin that meant he was about to annoy me with something. “True,” he said. “But not the whole truth.”
“Oh?” I said, prompting him.
“It’s a fun mystery,” he said. “No one is completely sure, but Miguel León Portilla—he’s a famous anthropologist—he says it means ‘the moon’s belly button.’” He was serious when he said it, respect in his voice for the poetry of it all.
“That’s not real,” I said. “Stop making things up.”
“‘The moon’s navel,’” he went on without me. “Isn’t it crazy how a word can be right in front of you, but can mean something you never knew?”
The moon’s navel.
I imagined a huge, ropy umbilical cord climbing into space. I imagined it being severed by a scalpel, by a doctor’s hand wearing one of the blue latex gloves Sue had been wearing, primordial juices scattering into space in little liquid orbs.
I felt supremely stupid, calling myself Mexican all this time without even knowing what the word meant. I wondered if Dan had privately corrected me back at the diversity conference when I’d told him that was what I was. I tried to remember if he had smirked back then. And why did Dan, from Minnesota of all places, get to know this? Why not me? Why hadn’t I?
“That’s pretty,” I said.
Dan picked up on my displeasure, though I didn’t know where it might have shown itself. He pivoted.
He showed me a blue pot to honor Tlaloc, the rain god. Dan pronounced these Aztec words, with their x’s and tl’s, so confidently that I had to assume he was correct. He showed me clay houses that depicted everyday pre-Columbian life.
They didn’t speak. They slept instead, out of contempt for their captors.
“The bottom floor is for ancestors,” he said. “They buried them under the house like they still lived there.” The figures on the bottom floor, ghostly white, were standing up.
“Gross,” I said.
I’d always been uncomfortable with the project of ancestry. I didn’t like the notion of being beholden to any people’s traditions or way of seeing themselves. Maybe I’d gotten that from Abuela, who’d come from Aguascalientes in Mexico and then made it her life’s work to sieve out anything in her kids that reminded her of where she’d come from—Spanish, recipes, poverty, these were things that had followed her across the border. She saw them buried.
There’d been no formal strategy for this. She never chastised me, for example, for the times I tried to practice Spanish with her. She didn’t actively seek out and extinguish any traditions. She simply did not nourish them, and so they died.
Dan showed me a panel, a Catholic triptych with two saints painted on the flanks. They were bearded and stiff in that stained glass way, bags under bulging eyes, long robes with thin, brittle halos around their heads. This was a rare find, Dan said, because the technique used to make it was lost shortly after the Spanish arrived in Mexico. Only the elite Aztec artisans of the day knew how to do it.
“What’s that?” I asked.
The Aztecs had plucked feathers, hundreds and thousands of tiny feathers from hummingbirds and parrots and fashioned a mosaic out of them. The Spanish then painted over the feathers, giving the piece an iridescent sheen.
“These are feathers?” I asked, stupid in the mouth.
“Yep!” Dan affirmed.
I imagined hummingbirds being picked from the sky like jittering, twig-beaked berries. I imagined Aztecs, forced at gunpoint to pluck the unwilling little bodies naked. Thick strokes of black paint buried the colors; two saints, one on each side, oversaw the burying, which seemed to me to be an ongoing process. The piece was centuries old.
*
Dan and I broke up for boring reasons. Over drinks, he told me he would be in Oaxaca for the next few months on an assignment and I immediately knew our relationship wouldn’t survive that. He was, as always, patient and understanding. He even sent me pictures from Mexico; little faces and animals fashioned out of gold.
“Do you remember that necklace Abuela had?” I asked Mom over the phone one afternoon. “Mother Cabrini?”
“Yes,” she said reluctantly. “La Mother Cabrini.” She said the name dolefully, like Mother Cabrini had been a past tormentor. I wondered if she too had been threatened with a space heater. “What about her?”
We’d salvaged next to nothing from Abuela’s house. Paul had people come in to junk most of it. Abuela left me her tortilla set, which was just a big hunk of wood. I didn’t want to check it on my bag back to New York after the funeral. I had no room and I thought it would break. But, as time went on, I realized I did want something, some heirloom from Abuela. The problem was, she didn’t really have anything for me.
“Could you, uh, find it for me?” I asked sheepishly, as if I were asking for Abuela’s bones in a box. “Unless you pawned it.”
“I’ll look,” Mom said noncommittally.
I found myself anticipating an update. I did wonder why I wanted something from Abuela so badly in the first place. My memories of her weren’t necessarily warm. I never even spoke with her after I moved away. But I had been overcome with the strange urge to declare, through an enduring object that had outlived Abuela and would outlive myself, “I am, I was, and I will be.”
Mom texted me, “Found it!”
A week later, a small cardboard box was waiting for me in the entryway of my apartment building. I ferried it up to my room and waited a few hours before opening it, as if something final might happen once I held the necklace in my hands. I ought to take in the world as it was while I still could, just in case.
I took my keys and slashed the packing tape. I opened one end of the box and slid the necklace out. It landed with a light, disappointing weight in my hand. Plastic.
I am a writer, journalist, and advice columnist from Oklahoma currently residing in New York City. I have contributed to NBC News, BuzzFeed, The Guardian, and more. My weekly column is called "Hola Papi!" and can be found on Condé Nast's LGBTQ+ outlet, them.us
“You’re Mexican!” he said a little too enthusiastically, like I was just what he’d been looking for. I worried that he was going to put me in his museum or something.
“You’re Mexican!” he said a little too enthusiastically, like I was just what he’d been looking for. I worried that he was going to put me in his museum or something.
“You’re Mexican!” he said a little too enthusiastically, like I was just what he’d been looking for. I worried that he was going to put me in his museum or something.